Category Archives: M – Languedoc region

The Languedoc and Southwards

19.10.2015 – So, a better day today and the bikes came out. We rode back across the sea front and cycle path to Grau du Roi and had a wander around.

2661 19.10.2015 La Grau-du-Roi

After about half an hour we actually wondered why we had bothered because it was all a bit Mablethorpe this place!!! We rode back to Le Grande Motte and went along the West shore.

2663 19.10.2015 La Grande-Motte

Sean and Stacey had left the site the day before and told us they were going wild-camping on the sea front. We found a stretch of parking next to the yacht club that had a large blue sign on the fence in three languages stating `NO CAMPING-CARS` but despite that there were a dozen vans parked there. (S and S were not amongst them). We/I decided that we would have another night in the Aire! (Completely bottled it!!!). When we came back to the Aire it was brimming with Brits – a couple from Dorset, another couple from Nottingham and a very nice couple from Barrow on Humber. Chat was had, newspapers were given and advice about Montpellier was supplied as the sun went down.

20.10.2015 – Today we were up bright and early, up and down loaded and then off down the coast to Villeneuve-les-Maguelone which we thought would be a cycle ride from Montpellier. Upon arrival at the town we found the Aire in an elevated position on the edge of the flatlands near an inland lake that borders onto the Sea. It was similar to Guantanamo bay to get in – big sliding gate, credit card readers; I quite expected a rectal scan, sorry, retinal scan just to get in!!! Anyway, in we got on pitch 15 next to a huge furniture removal type motor home; it was humungeous and wouldn’t have fitted on many of the other Aires that we have been on.

After lunch we set out to walk to Cathedrale de Maguelone which is a religious commune type thing that was built on an island in the middle of the lake we were near. It’s a strange set up in this part of France on the coast. There are inland lakes just off the sea and spits of land that have been joined together for roads and then there is a canal running down the middle of all this that runs from Sete to the Rhone near Arles, a distance of 98 kms. Back to my story – to get to the Cathedrale you have to cross the canal and the bridge that you cross on only opens betwixt 1300 and 1800 every day. So we walked fairly swiftly off the Aire to the canal and found the floating bridge at about 4.15. After a brief discussion we decided to risk it and walked over to find another sign saying `Cathedrale 1km/15 mins` O.K we thought, not a problem, just keep an eye on the time.

2664 20.10.2015 cathedral at Maguelone

We found the Cathedrale after another 20 minutes then spent about 20 minutes going in and round it. We were again a tad disappointed as we had had rave reviews about the place!
We wandered back to the bridge and found that it was closed………. For a huge dredger that was passing (thankfully) and after another 20 minutes the man at the controls allowed us passage. I don’t think he knew who Billy goat gruff was because he looked at me a bit `gone out` when I said Trip trip trip over the rickety bridge to him!

2665 20.10.2015 bridge at Villeneuve-des-Maguelone from Maguelone

Anyway, after that we returned to the van and checked the cycle routes to Montpellier. Shock, horror, it was going to be about 15 kms, having to travel an extra 4 kms down the wrong side of a motorway to get over the stupid canal!! So we checked the bus timetable and found one going from the lane end in the morning, result!!!

21.10.2015 – We were rudely awoken this morning by a group of workman replacing the service bollard next to us. There was a sign on the gate talking about work on the 13th and 14th of October but then I suppose this is France!!! These guys were very anti-social. They didn’t even knock on the van door to tell us that they were taking the electricity plug out and not a word was spoken to us at all. There were 7 of them at one stage plus three motor homers off the Aire all giving advice!!! I rolled up our flex and put it away then we went and got the Bus and the tram into Montpellier.
2673 21.10.2015 tram at Montpellier
Well that was a very enjoyable experience – I’m glad we didn’t bike in as we seriously underestimated the time involved!! The City however was stunning with huge open squares and tiny streets.

2671 21.10.2015 Montpellier 2672 21.10.2015 Montpellier aqueduct

It was full of students, beggars and homeless, very similar to Lincoln really, but that was no hardship as it was an outstanding place. I took Anne out to Lunch in a street café, (I know how to treat my woman!!!).
2669 21.10.2015 Montpellier - taking Anne out for lunch!

After wandering then shopping in C and A (yes ladies, France still has C and A and all their tee shirts have English slogans on them so no Christmas pressies this time!!!!) we found the tram station and rode vanwards.

Back at base the electric was back on and the Sun was out in all its glory so we spent the rest of the afternoon lazing outside and catching some rays!!

22.10.2015 – First things first this morning so I’m outside in the Sun, top off having a haircut. I get bed hair when it’s too long!!! Then we up and down loaded, drove to the gates and off we went heading for Gignac and a free Aire in the hills at Aniane or so we thought!!! Gignac was a hole so we stopped at Aldi, checked with Snooty then headed West for Lac du Salagou. On route we stopped for a walk around Clarmont l’Herault with its derelict castle and distinct lack of H and S warning signs (we love it!!)

2683 24.10.2015 Mazemet from Montagne  Noire 2678 22.10.2015 Clermont l'Herault ...another banister slide!

then onto the lake or so we thought………… Snooty took us along a back road and then instructed us to go down a track signed Prive` (French for private) with a large chain across. I think the owners were sick of Moho’s going down their track. Anyway she rebooted us to a camp site on the side of the lake costing 11 Euros. This is not right said I and we back=tracked and happened upon the Aire sign down a different track. Anyway, we found the Aire then seven French vans turned up. We paid our 5 euros to the site for pitch and EHU but I noticed that none of the others did. I waited for the camp site man to come and collect his dues so that I could gloat but guess what, he never turned up, still, I feel justified and certainly have my more holier than thou head on!!!! The Aire is only 100 metres from the lake which in the wind had turned into a white horse fest.

2679 22.10.2015 Lac Salagou - from the aire

It wasn’t as cold as late but still a tad chilly so we played cards then went to bed.

23.10.2015 – We decided to take the road west to Mazamet before hitting Carcassonne tomorrow because it looks, from the map to be a lovely winding road full of scenery and stuff. Indeed it was, the colours of the trees were stunning and the road gently climbed and curved through the foothills of Montagne Noire. We found a Laverie and Intermarche along the way for cake and washing then onto lunch just past St Pons-de-Thomieres where we saw these ladies also lunching or should it be munching!!!
2681 22.10.2015 'ladies that lunch'
2680 22.10.2015 lunch on the D908 in the sun
We are now at Mazamet on an Aire in the centre of the town looking forward to a big morning market then, traffic willing we will be off to Carcassonne!!

24.10.2015 – Not the best night’s sleep with the wind buffeting the van and the leaves rattling on the roof but we were up at a reasonable hour and into the town for the market, a low key affair with many meat and fruit traders present. We had coffee in a local Tabac watching the crowds then it was back to the van to see if the car park was free enough for me to manoeuvre out. Thankfully an old lady had just moved her brand new Citroen C4 out of the space next to the van (frightening all who saw!!!) and we were off. As we climbed out of the town we came across a pull in giving a lovely view of the area not 4 minutes away so a stop and photo op was had. A bit further down the road we decided on a walk round another manmade lake at Lac les Montagnes.

After a short stop for lunch we hit Carcassonne about 2.00 pm and found the Aire which was a 5 minute walk from the city.

I have wanted to see Carcassonne after reading the Kate Moss book Labyrinth and it exceeded my expectations. The architecture of the place is amazing but you have to look beyond the many cafes and tourist traps to see it. Thankfully it wasn’t heaving with manswarm and Anne even got some photos with no people in at all!!!

2687 24.10.2015 Porte Narbonnaise, Cite Medievale, Carcassonne 2693 24.10.2015  Cite Medievale, Carcassonne 2696a 24.10.2015 Chateau, Cite Medieval, Carcassonne

2701 24.10.2015 Chateau, Cite Medieval, Carcassonne 2703 24.Porte d'Aude, Cite Medievale,  Carcassonne 2705 24.10.2015 Eglise St Vincent from  Porte d'Aude, Cite Medievale,  Carcassonne

After the City we walked for 20 minutes down to the Bastide Town which was built near the midi-canal in the 14th century. It is a medieval town within a modern town and full of quirky and quaint shops plus huge churches and Cathedrals. We then back-tracked through to the City for a couple more photos of the Cathedral then on our way back to the van we saw our first ever murmuration of Starlings taking place over the town.
2730 24.10.2015 my first murmuration , Carcasonne

2725 24.10.2015 Cathedral St Michel, La Bastide St Louis, Carcassonne 2724 24.10.2015 Canal du Midi,  La Bastide St Louis, Carcassonne
2729 24.10.2015 Portal des Jacobins,  La Bastide St Louis, Carcassonne

More of Carcassonne –
2720 24.10.2015 Cite Medievale, Carcassonne 2717 24.10.2015 .Porte d'Aude, Cite Medievale,  Carcassonne 2715 24.10.2015 Cite Medievale,  Carcassonne

2712b 24.10.2015 Cite Medieval, Carcassonne

25.10.2015 – Well that was a terrible night!!!! We planned the next weeks journey then just after we’d got to bed there was a huge bang in the town. Anne stuck her head out of the roof light and she could see that there was a small fire burning between buildings – we watched and waited but no Pompiers turned up so we went to bed. We woke at 3.30 (joys of getting old!!) and Anne noticed that her clock had changed on her phone so she had to google French summertime which changed at 0300 and went back an hour! We dozed on and off until sunrise knowing that we had to be off the Aire by 0800 or face a further toll so at 0730 (by my watch) I validated the parking ticket and we left with no further charge thankfully!! Fuel was found and we headed out to Limoux and a free Aire. On arrival people were just getting up so we breakfasted then wandered into the town for coffee. The central square in the town is nice with many cafes and restaurants. Apparently there is a festival going on this weekend so we will probably stay a day or so, especially as tomorrow is Monday!! We returned to the van and spent the afternoon in the sunshine outside.
In the evening we could hear some music going on somewhere but it wasn’t in the square and after last night we were too tired to go and find it so we went vanward for yet another game of shithead – the woman is obsessed!!!!!!!